How to tweak a baitcasting reel

How to tweak a baitcasting reel

This article applies to most baitcasting reels. However, since I prefer Shimano reels, that is the primary focus of this article. I haven't used every Shimano baitcaster, but I have tweaked Shimano Chronarch, Calais, Curado, Calcutta, and Citica models. This article also assumes you are using right handed reels. Left handed reels are opposite.

Fill them full

The most important (and most often ignored) factor in setting a baitcasting reel is to fill it full of line. I like to have my reels so full that if I put any more on it, it will bind up on the sides. If it does bind on the sides, it is too full. However, it is better to overfill it and have to remove some than to short yourself on every cast.
Let me explain the importance of filling it full. The main reason is that you will get longer casts. If your line is full, your spool doesn't have to turn as many revolutions to get the distance. A rule of thumb I have come up with is that the percent of how full you fill your reel is about equivalent to the percentage of your maximum casting distance. For instance, if you fill your spool 100%, your maximum casting distance is 100%. If you fill it 80%, you can only expect to throw it 80% of its' potential. Likewise, if you fill it 50% full, you can likely throw it to the end, which is about half the distance you could get if it was full.
Another reason for having it full is because it is the only way you can be consistent. If you fill your line 80% full and get it tweaked for that amount of line. Later, you get hung up and cut your line - now you are at 60%. Your settings are now too tight, so you loosen your reel so you can get your maximum distance (which is about 60%). You later fill your line full and don't tighten your settings. What can you then expect? You guessed it! You can expect a big backlash with your brand new line.
How do you prevent inconsistencies? Well, you can't totally prevent inconsistencies, because line changes after it gets wet and after it has been used. But you can be fairly consistent by filling your line full and not letting it get low. My rule of thumb is to change my line when it gets below 90% or when the line gets looking bad.
Some people don't fill it full because they want to save line. I'm all for saving line, so here is my suggestion. I tie on to the line of most of my reels. Since I always keep my line full, I never expect to get to the knot. If I am using 12 to 15 pound test, I will leave almost half of the line on my bigger spools (Citica). If I am using 20 pound test, I will leave about 1/3 of my line on my bigger spools. If I am using 30 pound test, I will usually tie directly to the reel. If I use smaller spools such as my Chronarch or a small Calcutta, I will tie directly to the spool, unless I am using light line.
Let me mention that there are reels that are exceptions to the rule of filling them full. I had a Shimano Corsair reel that I got because of its' large line capacity. I filled it full and couldn't get it tweaked until I took about 20% of the line off.

Setting the brakes

Setting the brakes is very simple on the low profile styles of Shimano reels. Just remove the cover on the left side and pull out one of the 6 plastic weights to tighten the brakes or push it in to loosen the brakes. The round style reels (Corsair & Calcutta) are a little more complex. The brakes are in the same place and they are basically identical, but you must remove the spool from the right side of the reel to get to the brakes. Many reels have control knobs on the left side of them. You can probably tweak them by following the same procedures.

Tweaking the reel

To tweak the reel, first fill your reel full with line. Then tightnen the friction control knob (located under the star drag control) on the right side of the reel. You don't want it finger tight, just tighten it until it gets harder to turn. Start with 3 brakes out and 3 brakes in. Cast your lure fairly easily, but not against the wind. If it backlashes before the bait hits the water, you need to pull out a brake. If it backlashes after the bait hits the water, either you released too late or you need to tighten your friction control knob.
If you didn't backlash on the cast, try again a little harder. If it still didn't backlash, push in another brake and repeat the process. You want to find the point where if you pushed in one more brake it would backlash before the bait hit the water. The only way I know to find that point is to push them in until it does backlash (before it hits the water) and then pull one out. That point will usually be 1 to 3 brakes out on a calm day and 2 to 5 brakes out on a windy day. If you are able to fish with no brakes out, you probably don't have enough line.
Once you get it tweaked to where it would backlash if you pushed in another brake, then you do any adjusting with the friction control knob on the right. Loosen it to get more distance, tighten it to keep it from backlashing.
Keep in mind that your reel will let you know if it is too loose, but it won't tell you if it is too tight. You may set it for a windy day and when the wind dies down you could be getting much longer casts if you pushed in a brake or two. Likewise if you have it set for a full spool and you lose some line, it will then be too tight.
How tight you put the cover on will also make a difference. Tighter will slow the spool, while looser will make it spin (and backlash) easier.

Setting the drag

Setting the drag can mean the difference from catching or losing a fish, so it is very important. In case you didn't know, the big star next to the reel handle is the drag setting. Clockwise tightens the drag while counter-clockwise loosens it. I like to get the fish in the boat as soon as possible, so I normally keep the drag as tight as I can get away with. If I am using 30 pound test, I don't want the drag to slip unless a big fish turns away right at the boat. If I am using lighter line, I want it to slip so it doesn't break the line. What I do is put my thumb on my spool and hold it tight to keep it from turning. I then turn my reel handle. If my drag is too tight, I can't keep the spool from turning - so I loosen it counter-clockwise. If it is too loose, I can hold the spool and easily turn the handle without the spool turning - so I tighten it clockwise. This is basically the same as trying to pull the line to see if the drag will turn, only it doesn't dig the line in the reel. You may still want to pull the line to test it - just to make sure it is set right. Be sure to check it fairly often - especially if someone else uses your reel. I often set the hook on a fish later to find out that one of my clients loosened the drag so much that I couldn't get a hookset.